In the era of fashion fan fiction, Kiko Kostadinov thinks for herself
In recent years, our visual world has been dominated by a group of designers and creatives that I have come to think of as a fan-fiction neighborhood. Think of ASAP Mob, just like U-tan. Matthew Williams remixes Alexander McQueen. Safdies Scorsese Up The Sandler Method.Olivia Rodrigo Parrots a photo of Ellen von Anworth on the cover of Halls Survive this For his own first album – betrayed the spirit under everything parrot. Gen X’s Courtney Love Cobain thinks copying isn’t cool, but for young people today, it’s the way we think. I loved it so I would like to embody it myself. There is no ethical swamp here. Creation and fandom are now the same thing. Are our idols better than the people who work now? It’s hard to say because neither of us were there, but more importantly, even years after our debut, we took it with a fresh, young eye that wasn’t ironic. Nothing is so pure and wonderful. ..
Of course, fashion designers working in a world where originality is king (although rarely achieved) have a unique and difficult relationship of influence. So when this digital native generation stuffs their collections with imitation gestures and a full look like a copy rather than a tribute, they say it’s part of their job. I think of Vakera, who coined the term “fashion fan fiction,” which is a reproduction at heart of the works of Andre Walker and Miguel Adlover. And Williams de Givenchy, where Christophe Decalnin and Ricardo Tisi are much more realistic legends than Hubert de Givenchy. Or, Daniel Roseberry from Schiaparelli, who has just enthusiastically quoted Christian Lacroix for the show. The breadth of aesthetics of these designers shows just how popular this type of creation has been. It might be nostalgic that everything is just looking back, but it’s actually more complicated. It is really a desire to create in your universe of idols, to struggle in their shadow and to approach them in imitation.
When announcing the Spring 2022 collection last week, designer Kiko Kostadinov looked back at how her process differs from her peers and seemed a bit painful. “I struggle [with] I want to recreate a particular time, a particular subculture, a particular period or a particular set of tasks. ”“ I don’t think ‘pick a photographer and recreate your character the same way.’ ”This way of working is not really about clothes. But it brings light to a particular artist, and you just follow the character they’ve shot, created, or painted. I have a hard time with it because I’m not really close [enough] In any subculture, feel like I’m part of it. “
Kostadinov transcends fan fiction groups. He’s a designer of designers and he wants to show you what you didn’t expect, rather than doing what everyone else already wants (so his clothes are with A $ AP Rocky) Unsurprisingly, it was everywhere in Rihanna’s circus videos. In theory, he could easily turn to a funfic realm. He blew the content of the fashion bulletin board. Growing up and also the big head of Yohji Yamamoto. But like Yamamoto, Costa Dinov thinks of clothing as a conceptual artist. Its reference is to their creators, not to other creators. treat Of creation.
In the era of fashion fanfiction, Kiko Kostadinov thinks for herself
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