Victoria Beckham will return to the figure-hugging dresses she launched her fashion career with in a bid to rebound from lost sales during the pandemic.
The ‘VB Body’ dresses, in dense, compact knit designed to shape the body and accentuate curves, will be launched in April, marking a departure from the baggy silhouettes that have become the signature of her loss-making haute couture brand.
During a preview at her London studio, Beckham said the switch was influenced by spending time in Florida, where her husband, David Beckham, has a stake in the Inter Miami soccer team. .
“The more I learned about fashion, the more layers I wore. I bury myself under the clothes. But in Miami, if you go out at night in a midi skirt and pussy-bow blouse, people think you’ve lost your mind. It’s a normal outfit for me in London and I always like to wear it. But Miami opened my eyes to the fact that looking feminine and plump is so important to so many women.
Beckham’s luxury brand lost £8.6million in 2020. The results were an improvement on losses of £16.8million in 2019, due to a performing beauty line, but the brand has yet to make a profit. Last year, the brand’s average prices were reduced by 40% thanks to a shift to casual wear and simpler fabrics, in a bid to expand the customer base.
Price tags for the VB Body range will start at £90. “It’s not a vain and commercial project is not a dirty word,” said Beckham, who praised chief executive Marie Leblanc, “for getting the company into the best shape it’s ever had. had”.
Footfall for the flagship Mayfair brand remains well below pre-pandemic levels, although virtual appointments made from the store via FaceTime with customers at their homes are driving sales.
“I dress women for going out, for going to work, for traveling – all things that have been limited for the past couple of years, so business has been a real challenge,” Beckham said. “I think it’s time to get back to normal, start dressing properly and get back to the office, if I’m being perfectly honest. It’s great to see my desk full again.
Financial restrictions look set to rule out a show during London Fashion Week. “The shows are very expensive, and if we were going to have one in February, we had to commit to it now. For a small independent brand, it’s a huge investment,” Beckham said.
A planned show was canceled due to the lockdown in 2020, resulting in a major loss for the business. The designer joins a growing list of cancellations that are delaying the approaching runway season, with Giorgio Armani, Ann Demeulemeester, Brunello Cucinelli and JW Anderson all postponing live events or moving to a digital format.
Beckham’s “pre-fall” haute couture collection, which goes on sale in April, brings her mantra of “bringing the sexy back” to her signature demure silhouette. Curved seams have been optimized on long skirts and dresses “to take advantage of a beautiful buttocks and a beautiful waist, to celebrate being a woman. I no longer want to dress for comfort or hide under baggy clothes.
The collection’s bright citrus hues were inspired by the pistachio-colored seats and marmalade-colored walls of the Sant Ambroeus restaurant in Palm Beach, Florida. “We were having dinner, and I had David [Beckham] take a picture of me so I can send it to the studio,” the designer said. “A nod of bad taste makes the collection cooler.”